Perfumes are a 25 billion dollar industry, yet are one of the poorest
performing sectors of the cosmetics industry. The fragrance market is stagnating and
is cluttered with new scent products which means there is no longer any brand loyalty.
As many as 300 new brands appear every year. Consumers jump with speed
to the latest new 'designer perfume' product.
They must have the new perfume
and can't live without the fragrance when it first arrives on the shelves. But
they soon tire of the perfume and are ever seeking the novelty in an even newer
scent.
The older
generation, keen to be seen to move with the times, also adopts new
fragrances at the cost of old favourites. This means fragrances often only
have a shelf life of 3 years.
Launching a new perfume globally can cost
as much as $100 million, whilst maintaining the highest profile of a
fragrance such
as Chanel No.5 also costs money. The Nicole Kidman advert for Chanel No.5
cost £18 million and is expected to be used for 5 years.
Successful fragrances are worth their weight in gold.
Chanel No.5 sells a
new bottle of the scent every 55 seconds and has 6% of the fragrance market share.
This perfume brand just grows in strength. I'd venture that is because it actually
smells like a proper grown up perfume. So many new perfumes just don't beat
it as a super scent.
In Britain, hot on Chanel's heels are the perfumes Jean-Paul Gaultier and Eternity, both with soaring sales and both very popular perfumes, each with a 4% market share. Anaïs Anaïs also has 4%
market share, but sales of this fragrance are in decline compared to earlier years.
Other major players with 3% market
share include fashion perfumes Angel, Coco Mademoiselle, J'adore (in
decline) and Allure. Pleasure has a 2% market share making the
hundreds of other fragrances just bit players in the fragrance market.
Image right is courtesy of Debenhams a perfect gift for any woman.
Dior J'adore 30 ml gift set (30ml EDP and 50ml body lotion) £29.50 at
Debenhams.
Perfume brand loyalty is something the younger generation have not adopted and to
attract these customers some fragrance houses have fixated on using
celebrities. Names like
Jennifer Lopez, Britney Spears and Paris Hilton are
used on new scent formulations in an effort to revive sales. These perfumes often have short
term popularity.
Perfumes are often revamped producing a lighter version. One fragrance that has just had
this treatment is the famous perfumes
Estee Lauder Youthdew. Under the
casting vote of Tom Ford, this old favourite of many has been given a new
look and lighter touch. You can still smell a hint of the original Youthdew, but it is no longer so overpowering that you know what
the scent is hours later. Yet I think Estee might be horrified at this
subdued version.
Others stay true to famous brands like those by the
House of Caron which
began as a perfume house not as a couture clothes house.
It's not just bodies that we like to perfume, but aromatherapy scents used
either on the body or indirectly around the home is also big business in the
fragrance world.
Scented candles, perfumes for interiors and linens have become a huge home fashion market
associated with lifestyle moods and fragrant environments with a feel good
factor. It is driven by consumers who want to cocoon
at home whilst experiencing relaxation and mood enhancement.
Some of the best perfumed candles you can buy include those by Dyptique,
Tocca, Jo Malone, Liz Earle, L'Occitane and Molton Browne.
I have to say the
nicest perfumed candles I have tried are
Guerlain's Shalimar
candle and Jo
Malone's Amber and Sweet Orange candle. Real luxury and a heady
experience in both cases.
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