This page includes fashion design images from a 1930 Winter edition of
Women's Wear Patterns and Fashions first published in September 1930. Much
of the text below is exactly as written in the booklet. I have also
included a pattern draft
chart for one of the coats, which is suitable for experienced pattern cutters.
Essentially the Women's Wear booklet focuses on coats. The coats are
interesting in their own right because they illustrate the 1930s theme of unity
in fashion. Indeed, the early
1930s look with
intricate seam details that are a wonderful source of information and
inspiration for the modern fashion designer. The clear line drawings and
back views would also be useful for anyone making theatrical patterns for
an early 1930s play or for re-enactment murder mysteries. You can see
coats from other fashion eras here.
All the images expand to A4 size to show clear seam detail. The 1930 line
drawings are are also suitable for colouring-in
school use as well as theatrical reference for costuming dramas and
re-enactment events such as outdoor car rallies.
Notes from WOMEN'S WEAR PATTERNS AND FASHIONS exactly as
written in the booklet:-
In the ladies' branch of the tailoring trade the seasons must be anticipated, and preparation made some time
in advance, at any rate as far as fashions
are concerned. In view of this, we are
issuing with the present number a sixteen
page illustrated supplement of forthcoming fashions in ladies' garments for
winter.
The drawings have been specially
limned* for this publication by leading
fashion artists, and portray the principal
styles that will be worn during the season named. They maybe accepted as correct
both as to fashion and details, and can
be submitted to customers with every confidence.
This supplement can be used as a reliable fashion guide and style interpreter
and will answer in every way the same
purpose as a much more pretentious and
costly publication. The small extra
charge made for this addition to the pages
of Women's Wear Fashions by no means
represents the additional value given, or
even a tithe of it.
(*Meaning of limned 1. to represent in
drawing/painting. 2. to portray in words; describe.)
The following is a brief description
the styles represented, and dealt with in
the order in which they appear.
On the first page, Figure L2503 outlines
a stylish long coat with fur collar. It
is cut single-breasted with roll collar, and
fastens with three buttons rather closely
spaced. A curved seam runs through the fronts, and the back is cut whole.
L2505
Figure L2505 pictures another coat of large check pattern material,
with the
pattern running transversely. It is
wrap style and suitable for a weatherproof over garment. The fronts are held
together by a belt in lieu of buttons and holes, and the pointed straps on the
sleeves are copied on the hips. When
required the garment may button to the
throat for protection.
L2503 - Below left. L2505 - Below right. The images
expand to A4 size to show clearer seam and style details.
L2506
A useful coat and skirt are sketched on
Figure L2506. The short belted jacket is double-breasted, and without a collar.
It may either button over at the neck or
a rever may be formed on the right side.
Deep gauntlet cuffs make a suitable sleeve
finish. The side-pleated skirt has a panel
back and front.
Figure L2507 portrays a coat and skirt
of a strictly tailored character - neat,
plain, and chic. The coat is semi-fitting
and the fronts double-breasted. The lapels turn fairly low and while three
buttons are worn on each forepart, only two fasten, the other being for ornamentation. Two buttons are attached to the
cuffs. Two flaps and an outside breast welt pocket, and a centre seam back are
other details. The wrap skirt is quite plain.
L2506 - Below left. L2507 - Below right. The images expand to A4 size
to show clearer seam and style details.
L2519
A fashionable caped coat is depicted on
Figure L2519, made in the wrap style and
to fasten with belt. There is a stand collar and revers, and the four buttons on
the shoulder harmonise with the four on
the cuffs. Capacious patch pockets are worn on the hips.
L2520
Figure L2520 presents a stylish long
coat made of tweed, and trimmed with
fur collar. It is single-breasted with long
roll collar and fastens with one button
only. Two vertical seams run through
the whole length of the foreparts, deviating slightly at right angles on the hips.
A similar effect is carried out on the back.
The four buttons on the cuffs and fancy seam are for decorative purposes.
L2519 - Below left. L2520 - Below right. The images expand to A4 size
to show clearer seam and style details.
L2521
»
The coat reproduced on Figure L2521 whilst of a fancy design is equally useful and made to
wear during inclement weather, as shown by the straps on cuffs
and the button at throat. Both back and
front agree in design. Patch pockets are
arranged on the hips with flaps super
imposed.
L2522
Figure L2522 limns a smart coat trimmed on collar and cuffs with
astrakhan. The fronts are single-breasted, with two
buttons close-spaced, and jetted pockets
are inserted on the hips. Two vertical
seams run through the fronts deviating
slightly below the waist, and this is copied
on the back.
L2521 - Below left. L2522 - Below right. The images expand to A4 size
to show clearer seam and style details.
L2523
A fur-trimmed coat is reproduced on
Figure L2523, with a rather long shoulder
cape behind. The side pieces on the front
and skirt back are of original design, and the short belt and buckle keep
the garment in position.
L2524
Figure L2524 shows a wrap coat of
check pattern material. Ornamentation
is provided by the strapping on the front with the pattern on the cross, and the
button on the hip. The long roll collar
and cuffs, covered with fur, also add embellishment. The back is cut without a
centre seam.
L2523 - Below left. L2524 - Below right. The images expand to A4 size
to show clearer seam and style details.
L2525
»
An outfit for Continental sports is exhibited on Figure L2525, consisting of a
one-piece garment trousers and bodice. The latter is double-breasted, and has collar and revers. Woollen scarf, hat and
gloves are also indicated.
L2526
Figure L2526 displays a wrap overgarment with belt at waist. The collar
stands up behind and the revers are rather wide. The seam under the arm runs
zig
zag at the hips where a button is attached.
L2525 - Below left. L2526 - Below right. The images expand to A4 size
to show clearer seam and style details.
L2527
A check coat of novel design is introduced on Figure L2527 with fur
collar.
A yoke is introduced both back and front, which in front extends to the patch
pockets, forming a narrow strap with button attached. A belt encircles the waist,
and a series of buttons adorn the fancy
shape cuffs.
L2528
Figure L2528 delineates a coat and skirt
trimmed with astrakhan on collar and cuffs. The three-quarter length coat
buttons to the throat and has a deep stand
collar. Welt pockets are also inserted
on the hips. The skirt is quite plain.
L2527 - Below left. L2528 - Below right. The images expand to A4 size
to show clearer seam and style details.
Experienced pattern cutters please note that Coat
Fashion Design L2527 shown above left is available from fashion-era.com as a
free 1930 coat pattern
draft chart.
L2529
Another coat and skirt are featured on
Figure L2529 with curved seams on fore parts and cuffs. The jacket is single
breasted and quite short, with belt all
round. It has pointed revers and fastens with four buttons. A panel fronted skirt
is indicated.
L2530
Figure L2530 illustrates a long coat
ornamented with fur and braid. It is a
loose-fitting overgarment with Raglan
sleeves. The fronts button two, and a
belt also assists in keeping the coat in position. A vertical seam on the
fore
part curves into the sideseam at the hip,
round the patch pocket. A panel back is
suggested on the smaller drawing at the
foot.
L2529 - Below left. L2530 - Below right. The images expand to A4 size
to show clearer seam and style details.
Notes from WOMEN'S WEAR PATTERNS AND FASHIONS exactly as
written in the booklet:-
Demand For Flecked Tweeds - 1930
»
Reports from the ladies, wholesale clothing
manufacturers, state that some firms are fairly busy on winter stock orders,
especially for flecked tweed coats and juvenile garments. They report that
there is very little demand for velours, and those who have stocked heavily
in velours may find difficulty in selling some for the trend of fashion at
the present is all for flecked tweeds in blue, brown, and fawn.
Mackintosh Styles - 1930
The April-like weather experienced last month proved a
cheerful omen for mackintosh makers, who report having done good business.
Mackintoshes are now all made very light in weight and artificial silk
specially proofed material in the bright colours. Some are reversible, such
as small black and white checked design on one side and black on the other,
showing a narrow piping of the check on the edges, and cuffs, and looks very
effective. Beige, brown, and scarlet are popular colours.
Hockey Wear -1930
Now that winter is approaching many ladies' tailors are
receiving orders from hockey clubs for outfits. The newest idea is to wear
plus fours with a wrap over skirt arranged to open at the side for freedom
of limbs, and the usual cream shirt blouse. Of course, many prefer the navy
serge gym frock and knickers of the same colour serge, but a light-weight
material.
Strappings Decoration - 1930
A popular feature of the latest models of winter coats is
the use of strappings over the shoulders back and front, as far as the hips,
below which channel seams are introduced. This idea is largely introduced
for the faced velour coats.
Fur Collars - 1930
The fur collars for the winter coats are practically all
made to stand up high around the neck, and have a narrow facing inside only,
of fur, and the part close to neck is of the same cloth as the coat is made
of. Grey dyed furs are being much used for collars this season.
Artificial Silk Fabric - 1930
Many shops are displaying a new style of pyjamas, made
from artificial silk fabric. The blouse is of the tuck-in style with a vee-shaped
neck and the trousers are of the Mexican shape, with a close-fitting,
pointed-in-front yoke, and wide bottoms.
Housecoats - 1930
With the approach of the chilly evenings there is a
demand for the velveteen house coat in black, navy, or brown. The style
mostly, being shown is S.B. button-one, and having a neat roll collar, and a
fairly tight fitting sleeve. Welt pockets are the vogue.
Tweeds - 1930
Ladies' tailors report that many ladies are choosing the
same colour and design of tweed as for men save of a lighter weight, such as
brown tweed, with a large pin-spot or small herringbone.
Further along in the booklet Women's Wear reports:-
Accordion Pleating
Accordion pleating is very much in favour for the new
frock models now being displayed in the dress salons. It is extremely
effective for dance frocks, and is being utilised in all kinds of uneven hem
designs, etc.
Skirt Lengths - 1930
Although Paris has laid down the law that long skirts are
to be the fashion, a visit to the fashionable parts of this country soon
convinces one that this long skirt vogue has not materialised as far as
outdoor skirts, thus proving that Miss 1930 prefers the shorter skirts. The
sports girl does not look upon long skirts with favour. Of course, for
evening dresses, longer skirts have become the general fashion.
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