The 70s Disco Fashion 1970s Costume History
By 1970 women chose
who they wanted to be and if they felt like wearing a short mini skirt one day
and a maxi dress, midi skirt or hot pants the next day - that's what they did. For
eveningwear women often wore full length maxi dresses, evening trousers or
glamorous halter neck catsuits. Some of the dresses oozed Motown glamour, others
less so.
Left - Two young women in their early twenties on
holiday in the Canary Islands c1972. The short check flared skirt was very
popular, as was the empire style of the diamond check pattern mini dress.
Right - Halter neck catsuit pattern of 1971. Exotic and tropical
prints were a reflection of designers gaining inspiration from foreign travel
destinations.
For evening in the early seventies, either straight or
flared Empire line dresses with a sequined fabric bodice and exotic sleeves were
the style for a dressy occasion. 
One frequently worn style was the Granny dress with a high neck.
Sometimes
the stand neck was pie-crust frilled, or lace trimmed. Often they were made from a floral print design in a warm brushed fabric or
viscose rayon crepe which draped and gathered well into empire line styles. Right - Typical short and mini dresses worn at an
office party in 1972/3. At the front a young girl wears a long floral
granny dress that covers her knees. Another hugely successful evening style of the 1970s was the
halter neck dress, either maxi or above knee.
Left - Black halter neck dress pattern of 1971. At a disco, girls might
don hot pants. In contrast to the reveal all mini, a woman would suddenly
confound men by completely covering her legs and retort that mini dresses were
an exploitation, rather than a liberation of women.
»
The influence of the
self styled hippy clothes and the mish-mash of 1970s fashion from every corner of the
global village crept into mainstream fashion. Easier travel meant that people
brought ideas and accessories from abroad. Others looked for designers
to provide styles that fitted the mood of an era, that had returned to nature and
was anti-Vietnam-war in outlook.
If travel broadens the
mind, enclosed eco systems alter the fabric options. By the late 1970s women
travelling in enclosed heated cars could choose to wear lighter weight clothes
and abandon full length coats. Homes and stores in the temperate climate of the United
Kingdom almost universally became
centrally heated and most women could tolerate a chill mad dash between car and
front door knowing that warmth awaited them. Long coats gradually began to
decline as an essential winter buy and a series of garments from velvet jackets,
quilted padded duvet coats, hip length wool velour jackets and shaded ombre
dyed raincoats, were all a more usual sight as a quick cover up from the elements.
You are reading an original fashion history 1970s article written by
Pauline Weston Thomas for
www.fashion-era.com ©.
The Hippies of the
sixties had brought with them clothes from other ethnic groupings which had
often never even been seen before in the west. Nehru jackets and loose flowing robes from
hot countries made their way to world cities and permeated down to mainstream
fashion, helped of course by designers like Yves St Laurent. From the mid to late 70s, caftans, kaftans, kimonos, muumuus, djellaba (a Moroccan robe with a
pointed hood) or jalabiya (a loose eastern robe) and other styles from every
part of the Indian sub continent and Africa, were translated into at home style
robes and comfort wear. They were worked in every fabric imaginable, but were
especially suited as glamour dressing when sewn in exotic fabrics and edged in
silver, gold or other metallic embroidered trims. Right - Kaftan
pattern of 1971.
±
In the 1970s, every type of ethnic image set a trend. A peasant fashion for eyelets with lacing,
oversized ric rac braid with false bib parts of blouses became universal. Real
blouses began to appear beneath short bell, or just above elbow knitwear. The
lower sleeves became fuller and fuller so that by the late 1970s they were similar to
Victorian engageantes. Sometimes they were left open and were known as an angel
sleeve. The edging of the sleeve was often of the bordered fabric used in the
main body of the garment. Richly patterned, border print fabrics were
perfect for some of the simple garment shapes of the fashion era. The ethnic influence was so strong that it revived craft
skills from far flung places. Macramé bags and bikinis from the Greek Isles and
crochet waistcoats and shawls from Spain were all high fashion. The poncho was
short lived and soon became a children's style. Gypsy tops with drawn up necklines
trimmed with bells and puffed sleeves were made in cheesecloth or light cottons.
In the year of 1978, Broderie Anglaise made a brief
appearance as trimmed petticoat hemlines designed to show
beneath peasant style skirts. At about the same time, Tibetan and Chinese quilted jackets and
square armhole waistcoats, in mix and match prints were teamed with softly pleated skirts.
Sometimes they had stylised patchwork print effects and were a very pretty
feminine fashion. Indian imported
cotton voile dresses overprinted in gold by Phool were often worn with quilted
jackets. The colours were vivid and striking bright pinks, sea greens and
wonderful shades of cornflower blues. Indian silk scarves of similar designs
abounded. It was only in the 1980s when it was widely reported in
newspapers that the dresses were quickly
flammable, that they lost favour. It was during the 1970s that friendship bracelets first became fashionable.
These hand braided bracelets made from coloured yarns were initially made by
teenagers. As the 1970s fashion for teaching friends how to do it flagged, street
sellers started to make income from the craft by weaving bracelets to order, as
customers waited. The bracelets started as fine strips no wider than 6mm, but by
2001 they were often as wide as 2cm.
Foul smelling
untreated bags from far flung countries began to creep into the UK. When they
got damp they stank as they had not been cured properly. The same smell lingered
on imported Afghan coats which were decorated and embroidered and bordered in
fur. Sheepskin fur cuffs, front bands and hats with frog fastenings all gave a
romantic Russian look to clothes. The new longer clothes were made of floating and romantic
fabrics that used cotton voiles and chiffons. Other fabrics such as Broderie Anglaise, tiny pink or baby blue and white checks, which had a virginal quality,
all looked good in this longer fashion trend. Cheesecloth clothes with a
semi opaque quality were ideal for long peasant overtops that swung and flared away from
the body hiding the waist. They followed the line of flared and bell bottom
trousers.
Trousers and trouser suits were serious fashions in the
1970s. Pants began gently flared and reached wide bell bottom proportions by
about 1975. After which they slowly reduced to straight and wide until by the
end of the seventies they were finally narrow again. Popular fabrics included
heavy crepes, wool jersey knits, Courtelle jersey and woven Polyester suiting
such as Trevira. Emerald green, apple green and bottle green were all
favoured fashion colours of the early 1970s.
Right - Green trouser suit pattern of 1971. This style of trouser suit with a
hip length tunic, was very typical of fashion trends of 1971 and 1972. Farrah Fawcett Major and
her actress colleagues of the series 'Charlie's Angels' helped popularise not
only flared trousers, but also a rough cut hairstyle which demanded
constant use of tongs, or heated rollers to make the hair flicks. Many
women kept spare electric curling tongs or heated rollers at work, to maintain
the flickups in Farrah style. Tights sales plummeted
when some women chose to wear pop socks beneath trousers. Heavy crepes used
to make wide legged trousers often emulated the Chanel trousers of the 1930s.
They were worn with small knitted short vests or scoop neck tank tops. Waistcoats
were popular in any length from traditional, to hip length to maxi.
˚
In the early 1970s
platform shoes started with a quite slim sole which moved from ¼ inch up to
about 4 inches at the peak of popularity. When they were that high, individuals
frequently got friendly cobblers, or handy men to hollow out cheese holes from
the sole base. A platform shoe with a 1 inch sole was quite comfortable to wear
stopping the development of hard skin and feeling small stones through the
soles. By the mid seventies
the most ordinary people were wearing two inch deep platforms without a second thought.
But accidents did happen and many a woman and man twisted on a pair of platform
shoes. At about the same time, clogs became popular as they followed the trend
for chunkiness of sole. For those who still
liked to show a leg, it became tasteful in the early 70s to wear
creamy white tights with black patent shoes.
Really the tank top of
the 70s was a forerunner to the scoop necked camisole top of the 1980s, the
shell of the 1990s and the vest of the millennium. It may be laughed at now, but it was a useful garment worn
with a blouse, or simply worn blouse free with a matching V neck long style
cardigan just like a modern twin set. At the same time coordinated colour schemed clothes slowly began to
enter the stores and boutiques. Suddenly it was possible to buy a skirt or
trousers and top and not have to spend hours searching for tops and knits in
other shops that just might coordinate with the items. Mix and match collections
of separates were soon the norm
within good department stores by the 1980s. Knitwear and knitted Raschel or jersey fabrics were the easy classic
dressing of the 70s. Chunky hand knitted cardigans like the ones worn in
Starsky and Hutch were soon paraded around town. The most famous designer of
knitwear was Bill Gibb. His zig zagged knit patterns and complex intricate
designs in bright colours were the inspiration that was much copied by chain
stores. In turn these developed into the picture knits of the 1980s and a
blossoming of hand and machine knitting nationwide, primarily inspired by Kaffe
Fasset an associate of Gibb. Long knitted Dr. Who wool or acrylic scarves and matching
gloves and knitted chenille turban hats were worn for winter warmth and stayed
in fashion for about two years at the start of the seventies. Likewise footless
leg warmers in every colour including rainbow designs were popular for two
winters between 1979 and 1980. You are reading an original fashion history 1970s article written by Pauline
Weston Thomas for www.fashion-era.com
©.
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Despite the fact that
synthetic fabrics were used in many items of clothing there was still a
great following for natural fibres. Cotton velvet and cotton corduroy in
particular were worn at all hours of the day by both sexes. Coloured navy,
bottle green, wine or black it could be teamed with frilled shirts,or open
necked shirts. Courtelle
Courtelle jersey was
very popular for all sorts of garments from trousers suits to tank tops to neat
little dresses. From High Bulk To Low Bulk
Polyester
Crimplene which had
been so popular to create the correct 'A' line mini dress of the 1960s was used
for every style of garment imaginable. High Bulk Crimplene began to run out of
steam by the early to mid 70s and finer examples of the fabric like Lirelle had
been introduced. Crimplene had been used since the 50s and was loved for its
wash and wear qualities. The ethnic influence meant that people were looking for
natural fabrics or a fabric that at least looked more natural. Crimplene was
abandoned and continued to be worn only by old ladies. By the 1990s it was
almost extinct yet appeared to resurface in 2000 made into quality tops. Trevira
In the 70s Crimplene
was superseded by a less bulky version of polyester called Trevira. Trevira was
used to make wide Bay City Roller trousers with wide square pockets down the leg
sides and which were probably the inspiration of today's combat trousers.
Viscose Rayon
By the late 1970s the
scene was set for the fabrics of the 80s. Fabrics like Viscose Rayon in
crinkled textures were used alongside very fine crepe de chine polyester fabrics
a world away from high bulk Crimplene. Small dollybird or granny print
fabrics, looked best in draping viscose rayon. The fabric enabled the
full bloused sleeves to billow and hang exactly as designers intended.
Left typical dress style of the 1970s and sewn in a dolly-bird print with full
bloused sleeves..
Satinised Polyesters
Satinised polyester jacquard
blouses had been fashionable since the early seventies, but had always been
quite expensive. New technology enabled the satinised polyester to be combined
with the crepe de chine to produce fabrics of great complexity which looked like
real silk and which were ideally suited to the glitzy dresses of the 1980s.
Cotton
For some who took a
middle line in fashion, the clothes by the designer Laura Ashley which harked
back to country styles and long lost Victorian and Edwardian summers, gave them
the contrast they had sought from the relentless sexuality of the mini and the exotic
caftans. The fabrics were pure dress and cotton lawns with simple uncomplicated
prints of yesteryear. They were a relief to many who loathed synthetic fabrics particularly
in summer. Cotton jersey emerged
as a mainstay fabric for casual holiday wear. Unisex T-shirts were often tie
dyed as was cheesecloth or plain cotton.
By the 1970s the
disco scene was huge and performance dancing was popular with variations of the
shake still around with Jazz tap as the new energy. Disco dance clubs created a
venue for a new kind of clothing called disco wear which was based on stretch
clothes and light reflecting fabrics that shone under disco lighting. The 80s saw break
dancing, acid and house influences and a fashion for footwear such as trainers
or Doc Marten shoes suited to standing bopping around all night.
Disco looks began in
the 1970s and was memorable for its hot pants look and Spandex tops. Shiny
clinging Lycra stretch disco pants in hot strident shiny colours with stretch
sequin bandeau tops were often adaptations of professional modern dance wear
that found itself making an impact in discos as disco dancing became serious.
Gold lame, leopard skin and stretch halter jumpsuits and white clothes that
glowed in Ultra Violet lights capture the 70s Disco fashion perfectly. Right -70s Disco Fashion - Hotpants 1971
Left - 1971 Dressmaking pattern for hotpants worn with mini topcoat.
Disco gave way to
dress codes and a door screening policy. People had to have tried to look right to
gain entry to clubs. Disco wear was never acceptable for day wear, but for night
it was the only possible wear to enable the participants to be part of the
action, to be part of the atmosphere of strobe lighting, mirror balls and
spotlighting of individuals at any time. Satin jackets that reflected the light
and a medallion resting on a tanned chest in an open neck shirt with the collar
turned up were de rigueur, however awful such fashions might seem now. The
latter is a fashion male individuals will never admit they followed, yet for
many men it was the equivalent of the iPod accessory or mobile phone of today. Films like Saturday
Night Fever of 1977 as John Travolta illustrates in the header, emphasised how important it was to release all the pent up
energy of the working week on the weekend. Posing clothes designed to show
off the body and made in materials like figure moulding stretch Lycra were ideal. The elevation
provided by platform soled shoes which were the epitome of the spirit of the seventies, also gave an air of theatrical space age
fantasy as individuals in Lurex and satin flared silver trousers shimmered as
they swayed to the music beat. Linked to disco was
the fashion for fitness and the craze to feel the burn as Jane Fonda urged in
her workout videos. Go to the section
Fitness Fashion.
Disco was everything
that Punk the anti fashion anarchic movement was not.
Punk began as a very small
movement in the late seventies and was very short lived. It was never understood
by the masses until the 80s when it had more impact as an anarchic statement on
the western economy. You have been reading an original fashion history 1970s article written by
Pauline Weston Thomas for
www.fashion-era.com ©.
Retro 1960s, 1970s, 1980s talk format and music at
tonyjamesradio.com
This rememberthe70s site offers a DVD about the music of the 1970s www.rememberthe70s.com.
For related fashion eras of the 1970s and 1960s click below:-
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