There are many pattern drafting software
products on the market, but you are probably reading this because you
don't want to buy fashion pattern drafting software or use a computer
to produce a dressmaking pattern.
Flat pattern drafting by hand is a useful skill to have if
you like dressmaking and getting a good fit on garments. I now mainly
use my knowledge to assist me with adaptations of bought patterns where I
just want to alter a particular aspect of a style on the few occasions that
I now sew since computing has taken over as my main hobby!!!
Blocks are also known as slopers and drafting a basic skirt block by hand is something I do in about 15 minutes. The less
experienced will take about 35 to 60 minutes until they become familiar with
the method. Some will take longer, others less and it can be a very
satisfying experience for those who like to feel they don't have to use
computer software for such a simple concept. The actual pattern drafting should not take more than
1
hour even for a beginner, particularly with the stage drawings I provide
here. Provided you have already taken the body measurements of
yourself or the person who will have the block you will soon get the task
complete.
You will see every web page here clearly
deals with a different stage or stages of the skirt pattern draft and you can simply print off
individual enlarged stage pictures of the sloper by clicking the on screen thumbnail
images for an image version that will print without the web page side bars.
The basic or standard block here creates a straight block
which is generally perfect for the current fashion skirt called a pencil
skirt. It can be adapted into many styles and even tapered in a bit
more according to fashion, but most people love the basic fit of this sloper
skirt
to their body.
You can use my simple chart here to draft
skirt blocks in sizes 10 to 28, but better still take the time to measure
yourself with a tape measure and use your own measurements. The guide
below will then alert you if your measurements are wildly out as you compare
your records to the nearest stock size. The draft is best done in
centimetres as they are easier to divide than inches during the pattern
drafting exercise. Don't be alarmed at seeing parts of your body measure
over 100 cm ....
Insert Your Personal Measurements
Typical Measurements UK Size 10 - 28 in Centimetres
Chum 1
Chum 2
Chum 3
10
12
14
16
18
20
22
24
26
28
Waist
61
66
71
76
81
86
91
96
101
106
Hip
89
93
97
102
107
112
117
122
127
132
Length To Knee
25
26
27
28
29
31
33
35
37
39
Approx Knee
Vary with fashion, but larger sizes may need extra length
to accommodate rise because of abdomen/bottom.
At various stages pattern drafts need to have built in
ease. This is a standard allowance for ease of movement and is generally
the same for all sizes at various measurement points. When
manufacturers produce a trade block they adjust the ease to the fashion
garment type their company is making for a specific clientele from Miss
SlimLine to Miss PlusSize.
Ease to Hip
5cm
5cm
5cm
5cm
5cm
5cm
5cm
5cm
5cm
5cm
5cm
5cm
Ease to Waist
3cm
3cm
3cm
3cm
3cm
3cm
3cm
3cm
3cm
3cm
3cm
3cm
Click this tiny thumbnail
to enlarge and then to print out this chart
without the web page side bars.
The basic skirt block can later be adapted
into a variety of styles and more variations can be created. I'll be dealing
with how to split, slash and spread the skirt block later on. Yes this
can be done with computer software, but maybe you want to learn how to do
this just for the sake of it.
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