Next you will need to make a toile in muslin, calico,
cotton or even old sheeting to check
the fit of the block. The block without seam allowances which is
how it is always used to make adaptations is called NET BLOCK.
First make a paper pattern with SEAM ALLOWANCES!
Take the 2 basic block patterns and redraw/trace them
onto fresh paper. Now add a side seam allowance down both sides
of 1.5 cm. Do not add any allowance at the waist or at the hem.
See
below for how much fabric you need to check the block fit.
Place the new pattern pieces on the straight grain of
the muslin fabric as shown in the diagram and cut out the fabric
pieces ready to make up the skirt.
1. The order of work would be to first join the centre
back seam leaving a 20cm space for the zip at the top of the centre
back at waist level.
2. Press the back seam open.
3. Insert the zip.
4. Next make the darts in both back and front skirts.
5. Press the darts toward centre front and centre back
of the pieces over a rounded ham tailoring aid.
6. Place the two right sides of the skirt pieces
together and pin then tack the side seams. Use a loose machine stitch
about number 4 to machine the pieces to together. This will enable you
to quickly unpick the seam if the skirt is too tight or too large for
your figure.
7. Try on the skirt toile and adjust the darts or seams
to fit by letting them out or taking them in as needed.
8. Check the waist sits correctly and that the skirt
length is to your liking as a finished length. If you need to
add more length or remove length make a note of it now.
9. Transfer fitting alterations to the basic block and
either stick the resultant paper pattern block onto firm card or make
a card version of the exact pattern block.
To make the toile you will need approximately 1.60cm of
90cm wide cotton fabric or 80cm of 150cm wide fabric. If you are
on the large or on the taller side you may need to adjust this amount
and simply by twice your finished length of fabric.
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