A brief look at spring summer 2005 ideas from
a small selection of world renowned fashion designers in the autumn 2004 prêt-à-porter ready to
wear shows. Some of the main fashion statements made can be
summed up with the words lace, embroidery, crochet, safari/tribal/animal
effects, ruffled refined romantic feminine fashion and tiered long maxi
skirts. Fur has always been a symbol of rank and
privileged circumstances. Design houses of Roberto Cavalli, Dior, Gaultier
and Fendi all use fur in their designs.
London is the city to find shows with witty,
inspiring clothes that outrage and shock.
He had polished
tailoring, stunning colours, lustrous dresses, seventies sparkle fruit
colours of lime, watermelon, Clementine, kiwi and watered lime.
Mouret featured shrunken
cropped jackets in light turquoise tweeds and contrast textures. Like the shrug,
cropped jackets don’t have to do up, but just slip over the garments beneath.
Silver brocades and textured slubby silks make them garments that add a flourishing
enhancing decorative touch. Dress and coat outfits and suits, with an
update on the boat neck highlighted a strong sense of understanding fine
tailoring. He favoured using mint green, silver grey,
pale gold and rose pink.
Betty Jackson never fails to make an
impression producing wearable clothes that her clients love. There
were Bohemian touches throughout her show. Her Knitwear featured a
hint of Navajo amid feathered trimmings. Her evening wear focused on dresses
which glowed with Moroccan silver embroidery and beading. Soft
flesh coloured kaftans were delicate and easy. An unusual combination
was the pairing of striped sweaters with full skirts of taffeta, wrapped
with sashes and bowed at the waistline.
She was also inspired by both the 70s and 30s
and Jackson's floral frilled chiffon, high waisted dresses took us to a
world of voluptuous cleavage and lazy dreamy afternoons. Jackson showed leaf
printed coats a line also followed by Proenza Schouler in New York.
One feature likely to be a big hit were her studded belts.
MacDonald concentrated on his
first textile love of knitwear, producing a very commercial range which
buyers loved. His cardigans were pearl embroidered and perfect as
covers for clothes inspired by 1940's flamenco where he used ruffles and
flounces and showed a very commercial frilly cleavage blouse. He also
had dresses with tiers decorated with fabric flower in their hundreds.
Sequinned halters, satin and Lurex pants or fine accordion pleated skirts
meant that he created looks loved by buyers and fans alike. The 1940's
feel was emphasised by Betty Grable Victory Roll styling to the hair.
Milan catwalks last autumn were inspired by African and
Indian styling. This spring summer 2005 we will see the dramatic
melting pot effects of the Milan shows as we adopt
folkloric/ethnic/peasant/tribal and even Polynesian details that initiate
exotic spectacle in dress unseen for years. Afghanistan, Romania,
Japan and even the Amazon were the sources of bright ideas from designers
such as Roberto Cavalli, Rifat Ozbek, Molinari, Dolce & Gabbana, Gianfranco
Ferre and Prada.
There was no holding these designers who trotted the
globe for stimulation. On the other hand the globe is now at
everyone's fingertips so it is hard for them not to be influenced by the
need to appeal to a wider customer base. There real is nothing new in
this approach. The house of Yves St. Laurent looked to the Russian steppes and other
places for inspiration some 40 years ago and designers like
Poiret looked to the orient for
inspiration 100 years ago.
Rifat Ozbek created a
slim silhouette with his elegant slender skirts and Nehru stand collar
jackets embroidered with traditional Indian silver embroidery.
opted for Garden of Eden prints on his gypsy skirts and looked to even more
exotic themes with his kaftans in lavish tiger prints. Using earthy tones he
managed to make crochet look sophisticated as he worked it into evening
dresses that reminded one of early 1970s macramé bikinis from Corfu. His use of semi precious material like coral for a halter neck suggests that
designers are striving to stay ahead of mass producers that rip off their
designs before the designers themselves can really market them to their once
exclusive clientele .
Dolce and Gabbana
took animal prints like zebra and tiger onto chiffon and continued the
exotica theme with use of crocodile, python and other reptilian textures.
Miu Miu favoured high
waisted dresses and this look is sure to be widely copied by mass
Donatella Versace showed more refined far less vulgar
clothing than usual shows with less bling than earlier fashion shows
concentrated on. Her days by the sea influenced designs of coral
prints, sarong knot dresses in fluid silk jerseys and starfish flip flop
sandals will suit her jet setting, sun tanning clientele as they lounge on
yachts or cruises. Her colours were attractive in aquamarine and peach
Generally in September 2004 New York shows showed a lot of shorts. Some
styles for this forthcoming summer will be tailored with cuffs, others sharply creased and teamed with
jackets and high heels.
Marc Jacobs is very
highly regarded as the innovator and face of young fashion ideas. He changed
direction last autumn to produce a show with full skirts and crisp taffeta
prom dresses. Ladylike was the look he did well with memorable bold
tweed check coats.
Gave us whisper grey wedges and the skinniest white
jeans and used bright colours like his blue glass like shiny python jackets
ideal for strong sunlight on the Riviera. He also favoured
sulphur yellow green, turquoise sea, and opted to show plenty of gold bling
making his pieces perfect for his cruising customers who jet set and like to
Matthew Williamson created 1970's Ibiza
inspired hippy bohemian clothes.
Anna Sui's white ruffled gipsy skirts were
reminiscent of the life of idyllic girls on the prairie. Fringed
suede, slouchy cowboy boots and
north American Indian embroidery or Navajo jewellery produced some
translatable winning ideas.
Posen was notable for
joining in the current ethnic inspired shows and did mirror image Aztec
style prints well.
Oscar de la Renta
At Oscar de la Renta paired short voluminous
skirts with ikat prints in bright colours on coats and jackets.
He enchanted with
glamorous evening wear that referenced swimsuits. He also showed wispy flesh toned v necked
empire dresses just above the knee. Peep toe pink heeled sandals low cut
She did cropped jackets and shorts that were rolled up.
This was an interesting look.
The New York team Jack
McCullough and Lazaro Herandez showed brocade skirts topped with liquid gold
bustiers overlain with foliage printed swing coats. Toe cleavage was
evident with low cut peep toed silver shoes. Metallic shoes are set to
be a big hit globally.
Hollywood style twenties and thirties inspiration and revived nostalgic
luxury dressing ideal for movie stars was the theme of this design house.
House of Balenciaga showed a look which was full and voluminous on the
bottom and narrow and fitted on the top, with the front and sleeve hemlines
of a jacket studded with jewels. There were also high waisted narrow
cut loose trousers with button front sailor style panels and all worked in a
restricted colour palette. Jackets had a military French Revolutionary air
and gold worked buttonholes as a decorative feature with no function were a
At Lagerfeld’s own gallery collection his
glitzy designs included Jewel cuffed coat dresses in taupe, pink,
cappuccino, algae greens. Clothes were teamed with high gold sandals
everywhere. Kaftans embroidered in coral sprigging gave an air of relaxed
glamour dressing that was serene and luxurious at once. Halter neck
dresses, suits and jackets abounded.
Alexander McQueen added Indian embroidery to Chantilly lace, embellished
sheer layers on wispy dresses with gorgeous carousel horses and continued
the decorative elements with smocked tailoring and knife pleating.
John Galliano at Dior
Galliano used black denim
and crochet to create decorated commercially translatable pieces that buyers
loved. He abandoned his extravagant ideas in favour of clothes for
people in the real world which somewhat defeats the point of being a Paris
fashion house. But evening extravagances included devore velvet
trousers and flower embroidered georgette skirts.
Paul Gaultier favoured the Romany gypsy dirndl skirt look with bare off
shoulder tops and tailored jackets with ruffles.
Alber Elbaz Designer at
Lanvin is now a very hot label. The house showed
silk padded jackets, languid shifts full of Grecian pleats and fine
accordion pleated skirts.
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