Fake and real fur has been included by many well-known fashion designers
in their Autumn/Winter 2005-2006 collections.
Fur then is likely to be popular this year and although many designers
use real fur in their collections, many high street faux fur versions of
high fashion garments are available to those who prefer not to use real fur. Putting up commentary about fur can be controversial, but this is a fashion
site and I am reporting the fashion information I have. If you do not
wish to wear real fur, do as I do and opt for a quality faux fur trim or use
a textured knitted trim alternative instead - so please don't write to me
about this issue especially as I am a vegetarian.
New Faces Bring Fresh Direction to Fur
Trend Highlights of the International Ready-to-Wear Collections for
Autumn/Winter 2005-2006
In the wake of last season’s deepening love affair with all things fur, this
year even more international designers are discovering its versatility and
beauty, taking fur in fresh and exciting directions.
Some 40 notable new faces presented fur in their collections for the first
time, including Francisco Costa for Calvin Klein and Jennifer Lopez at
Sweetface.
From New York, Milan, Paris and London, international designers reinforced
fur as the Autumn/Winter 2005-2006 season’s fashion essential with dramatic
new shapes, bold new colours and treatments and a spectrum of sensational
styles ranging from linear modern coats and jackets to embellished looks
infused with romantic and bohemian influences.
Above Louis
Vuitton - Pearl mink leather trimmed officer's coat and Zac Posen's
feathered fox vest. Below Roberto Cavalli’s fox trim studded
embellished Russian jacket at around $11,700. Julian Macdonald mahogany mink
jacket on the far right directly below shows drop crystal bead decoration
when the thumbnail is enlarged.
Inspiration was drawn from the romantic era of the Russian Revolution, from
tsarinas and bohemians. Decorative embroidery and lush fur trims evoked
passion and pleasure in Roberto Cavalli’s opulent dyed fox trimmed brocade
jacket. Romantic ruffles and frills also give a bohemian notion to this
season’s fur jackets, as in Marc Jacobs’ mink collared, tiered and ruffled
A-line black karakul coat.
There was a dramatic turn towards darkness this season with black and white
emerging as a major story. In Milan, Roberto Cavalli’s slim black crocodile
coat with black fox border and trim was a study in subtle opulence while at
Dolce & Gabbana a black karakul blazer made a more dramatic statement.
As a counter point to black, white and other natural shades or fur returned
to the runways –
in Milan, a collarless knee-length lynx coat with a karakul
trim dressed jeans at Dolce & Gabbana while in Paris at Jean Paul Gaultier a
white lamb kimono jacket was edged in badger.
Designers set the shape of fashion on a new path this season. Lean, linear,
unembellished shapes in short-haired and sheared fur offered a modern
alternative to the long-haired fuller, more decorative silhouette.
Fur garments on the catwalk were sleek with refined sharp cuts and
sculptural stand-up collars. Many of the slender, minimal looks evoked the
Mod 60’s as in Prada’s sleek collarless black karakul coat and the severe,
but shapely white wool toggle coat with natural fox collar by Nicholas Ghesquière for Balenciaga.
At the opposite end of the spectrum, a rounder, more voluptuous direction
inspired by 1940’s and 50’s couture made a shapely statement for autumn. New
cuts and treatments lent controlled volume and softness to Chado Ralph
Rucci’s lush bias-cut Russian sable coat and Lanvin’s sumptuous fawn mink
trench coat.
End of IFTF Press Report 1. All Fur Thumbnail Images
Courtesy IFTF
Ω
Designers Experiment with Fur's Versatility
Innovative design directions for Autumn/Winter 2005-2006
In all four of the major fashion cities designers used the latest design
techniques to further explore the ever-extending uses of fur in fashion
design. These innovative techniques enabled them to play up fur’s weight,
volume and add texture to garments with geometric shapes and patterns.
Three
key trends to look out for this Autumn/Winter are: Mixed Media, Oversized
collars and Geometry lessons. All Fur Thumbnail Images
Courtesy IFTF
In the mix this season designers combined furs with leather, velvet, chiffon
or stretch jersey or joined a number of fur treatments together in one
piece. Clements Ribeiro created depth and movement to a sassy bolero by
mixing short-haired white mink with a long-haired black fox. Hermes took a
more conservative approach pairing tweed and black sheared mink to create a
sleek bomber.
Shape and texture is also key for the coming Autumn/Winter. Chevrons,
zig-zags and bias cuts added dimension and curves to fur garments. Marc
Jacob’s used natural mink chevrons to accentuate the cinched in waist of an
oversized coat and at Calvin Klein, designer Francisco Costa textures a
black sheared mink coat with a boxy grid pattern, creating a streamline
figure hugging look.
For fans of the 70’s be aware that the oversized collar is making a
comeback. Dsquared2 adorned a tan cropped jacket with an exaggerated sheared
fox collar. Other designers to follow suit included Alexander McQueen who
gave a slim mid-brown mink cardigan coat a horizontal collar and Christian
Dior added an amplified notched collar to their cognac mink trench coat.
All Fur Thumbnail Images
Courtesy IFTF
Whichever you prefer, from big collars to geometric designs there is a style
to suit everyone.
End of IFTF Press Report 2 (Page Date August 2005)
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