Early English Costume History

English Costume History 1066-1830
by Dion Clayton Calthrop

Edited By Pauline Weston Thomas for Fashion-Era.com

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Introduction to Calthrop Costume HistoryThis section looks at the English Costume book by Dion Clayton Calthrop.   It describes the history of English gowns, tunics, headwear, pants, jackets, robes and other basic styles.  The costume history includes 700 years of everyday costume worn in England between 1066 and 1820.  Dates and names of every English King and Queen between 1066 and 1830 is included.

Use the costume images as guides for Medieval/Middle Ages re-enactment, fancy dress, carnivals, pageants and dramas.  The timeline covers for example William The Conqueror, the King John, Robin Hood era, Country Folk, Edward III, Chaucer, Henry VIII, Elizabeth 1, Cromwellians, Charles II, Georgian Kings & Beau Brummell.

Ancient Costume before the second millennium period is shown in Egyptian, Greek and Roman Costume - a different section.

The colouring in sheets are suitable for school use.


Introduction to Caltrop Costume History

English Costume

Painted And Described By
Dion Clayton Calthrop. Calthrop's Introduction.

William The First 1066-1087

King William I Conqueror

Also known as William The Conqueror.

Costume for Men and Women 1066-1087. Tunics, cross gartering, girdles, gowns and wimples. Images.

William The Second 1087-1100

William II Costume

Costume for Men and Women 1087-1100.
Medieval hair and plaits.

Page Added 5 August 2010

Henry The First 1100-1135

King Henry I Costume

Henry The First 1100-1135. Costume for Men and Women in C12th Britain. Tunics, cross gartering, girdles, gowns and wimples. Images.

Stephen - 1135-1154

King Stephen

King Stephen. Costume for Men and Women in C12th Britain. Tunics, plaits and wimples. Images.

Henry The Second 1154-1189

Henry II Costume

Medieval chin bands, caps, wimples for women.

Page Added 5 August 2010

Richard The First 1189-1199

Long flowing gowns and capacious mantles. Oriental influences on dress in the Middle Ages.

Page Added 5 August 2010

John 1199-1216

King John

Colourful Medieval Surcoats, cloaks and mantles. Big sleeves.

Page Added 5 August 2010

Henry The Third 1216-1272

Henry III Costume

The surcoat and interesting pointed shoes of the Middle Ages.


Costume - End of the Fourteenth Century 1066-1272

The Country Folk. Early Medieval peasant clothing and dress. The mole-catcher.

Peasant Costumes

Page Added 5 August 2010

Edward The First 1272 -1307

Edward 1 Costume

Edward I and Queen Eleanor in the Middle Ages.

Page Added 5 August 2010

Edward The Second 1307 - 1327

The new cotehardie, the Medieval liripipe and fillet hairdressing.

Edward II Costume

Page Added 5 August 2010

Edward The Third - 1327-1377

King Edward III Costume

 Ladies Surcoats - lirippe, sleeve tippet, gorget, wimple, fillet, women's head-dress, cotehardie. Scalloped capes, purses, parti-colours. Courtiers. Piers Plowman Poem. Loutrell Psalter - illuminated manuscripts. The Third Great Pestilence. Kings cavalcade.

Page Added 7 August 2010

Richard The Second - 1377-1399

King Richard II CostumeKing Richard II Dress

The Houppelande. Ladies Surcoats. Cotehardie The Chaperon. Caul fillet headdress. Pointy Toe shoes. Men and women's dress in late medieval England.

Page Added 7 August 2010

The End Of The Fourteenth Century - Dress by Chaucer

Chaucer Costume History

Chaucer's descriptions of everyday Medieval dress worn by pilgrims in his Canterbury Tales. Extracts - The Miller's Tale and The Parson's Tale. Colouring-in pictures.

Page Added 8 August 2010

Henry The Fourth - 1399-1415

King Henry IV Costume

Houppelandes, Surcoats and Cotehardies.

Page Added 10 August 2010

Henry The Fifth - 1413-1422

King Henry V CostumeKing Henry V Dress

Dress at the time of the Battle of Agincourt. The man's short houppelande gown, the hood and the sugar-bag cap. Baldrick belt and priest cropped hair.

Page Added 11 August 2010

Henry The Sixth - 1422-1461

King Henry VI CostumeKing Henry VI Dress

The full sleeved tunic for men and the elaborate headdresses for women.

Page Added 11 August 2010

Edward The Fourth - 1461-1483

The steeple headdress reaches new heights for women.

Men's tunics are cropped short and worn with hosiery, but new styles are emerging.

Page Added 12 August 2010

Richard The Third - 1483-1485

Medievalism draws to a close and old fashion styles die whilst the basis of the Tudor trend style is set.

Edward The Fifth - He reigned just two months April and June 1487. No Page

Page Added 13 August 2010

Henry The Seventh - 1485-1509

King Henry VII CostumeKing Henry VII Costume

The new Tudor dynasty begins.

Slashed sleeves, the dressing gown coat and coif hood headdresses all in rich luxuriant materials - 'good stuff' dominate styles.

Page Added 14 August 2010

Henry The Eighth - 1509-1547

House of Tudor. Dress for men and women during the reign of Henry VIII and his 6 wives.

King Henry VIII CostumeKing Henry VIII Dress

The white hood, the diamond arch headdress, slashed and blistered sleeves. Colouring-in drawings.

Edward The Sixth - 1547-1553

King Edward VI

The important flat cap and tunic to doublet for men. Women's simpler headwear and larger collars. Transitioning toward Elizabethan styling.

Mary - 1553 -1558

Queen Mary Costume

The Spanish influence on dress in the mid 16th century. The transition from Tudor to Elizabethan styles and silhouettes.

Elizabeth - 1558-1603

45 Years of fashion history during the reign of Queen Elizabeth I. Doublet, trunks, hose, ruffs, collars, slashed sleeves.

Shakespeare and clothes.

James The First - 1603-1625

Jacobean Costume.

Jacobean Hair Styles

Ladies Hairstyles & Headdresses as Shown in
'English Costume History by Dion Clayton Calthrop'

Charles The First - 1625-1649

Charles I.

Cavalier dress for men and women. the decline of the ruff. The development of the doublet. The popularity of the Vandyke collar.

The Cromwells - 1649-1660

Dress During the Civil War Era. Plainer garment styles without frippery.

Charles The Second - 1660-1685

Restoration costume for men is fussy, extravagant and not very practical featuring lace, ribbons and huge wigs.

There were two distinct forms of dress for men in the reign of Charles II - the short and later the longer jacket which developed into the frock coat.

James The Second - 1685-1689


William And Mary - 1689-1702

Queen Anne - 1702-1714



George The First - 1714-1727


George The Second - 1727 -1760

The Georgian Frock Coat. wigs

George The Third - 1760-1820

George IIIGeorge Third

Men's Coats Drawings by Calthrop

1760-1820 George III - Men's Occupational Dress

Drawings by Calthrop

Occupational Dress

1760-1820 George III - Women's Gowns & Hair

Drawings by Calthrop

1770s - Women's Gowns & Hair

George IV - 1820-1830

Beau Brummell Fashion

Beau Brummell.



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