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Antique Fashion & Costume Plates
 Part 12 - Mixed C19th Fashion Plates

By Pauline Weston Thomas for Fashion-Era.com

 

Antique Fashion & Costume Plates - Part 12
Mixed C19th Fashion Plates from Fashion History

By the 1940s the renowned costume historian James Laver also noted that fashion plates were already becoming scarcer.  Hollywood film company costume departments and theatrical companies began to collect fashion plates to enable them to reproduce costumes more accurately.  Twenty years ago it was harder to collect costume and fashion plates in the UK than it is now in my opinion.  Now, as well as using traditional antique and second hand bookshops, many collect fashion plates from internet auctions such as eBay and repeat sellers at Antiquarian internet book sites.  People who have stored boxes of old belongings have unearthed magazines and other documents, and all such items regularly find their way to eBay. 

These carefully selected fashion plates below are all from Fashions and Fashion Plates 1800 - 1900, Laver's little 18cm by 12cm book of 1943.  It covers a good range of changing silhouette lines from the era 1800-1900.  It includes more female than male fashions.  I have shown the 4 original plates on Victorian men's dress separately with the original text all on its own page.

Fashions and Fashion Plates 1800 - 1900

Le Beau Monde, 1807

WALKING DRESS

WALKING DRESS 1807An elegant walking dress, is a straw gypsy hat, tied down with a white silk or a rich half-lace handkerchief; a muslin gown, ornamented with knotted work crossing the shoulder to correspond with the bottom of the dress. The body is made quite plain to draw round the bosom, and fulled in the back to imitate the frock waist, with a light yellow sarsnet or camel-hair scarf, richly diapered at the ends with various colours; the scarf is worn so that the dress may be exposed, tastefully tied with a careless knot in front. Lilac gloves and half boots made of kid, a beautiful white down muff, adds much to the elegance and splendour of this much admired Walking Spring Dress.

 

La Belle Assemblée, 1817

AUTUMNAL CARRIAGE PELISSE AND BONNET

1817 AUTUMNAL CARRIAGE PELISSE AND BONNETPelisse of the Cachemire manufacture; the ground white, ornamented with a fine vermillion red. Bonnet of vermillion coloured satin, embossed with straw, ornamented slightly with straw-coloured ribbands, and surmounted by a bouquet formed of a full blown damask rose and buds, with cars of ripe corn. This ornament is partially placed on one side: the edge of the bonnet finished by blond laid on strait. This elegant pelisse is confined by a vermillion-coloured belt, with a gold and Ceylon ruby broach, or clasp. Lyonese shawl with a rich border of various colours, is often thrown over this dress, as represented in the Print. White kid half boots; Limerick gloves, and vermillion-coloured satin ridicule with gold tassels and spring. Fichu frilled with fine lace, and left open at the throat.

La Belle Assemblée, 1823

EVENING DRESS

EVENING DRESS 1823Dress of Urlings patent lace over a slip of lilac coloured satin. Three French tucks of white satin, falling one over the other, are placed at the edge of the border. These are surmounted by a rich festoon trimming of white crape, consisting of full puffings; each festoon headed by an Asiatic diadem, divided by pearls, which gives a most splendid effect to this truly novel and unique kind of trimming. The body and sleeves are elegantly simple, the former having only a slight ornament of fine lace round the bust, with a few puffs of lilac satin; the sleeves are very short, not full, and are bound tight round the arm with a broad band of satin. The head dress is à la Grecque. with two beautiful white ostrich feathers, falling over the left side.   Two rows of large pearls form the necklace worn with this dress, with a Maltese cross, of topazes. A scarf, or drapery of the same material as the dress, only of a rich pattern and not plain like the robe, is a charming addition to this elegant costume, the effect of which we have shown in our engraving.

La Belle Assemblée, 1824

CARRIAGE DRESS

1824 Pelisse of gros de Naples of Egyptian redPelisse of gros de Naples of Egyptian red, ornamented on each side of the bust, and of the skirt, with full rouleaux of the same material. A broad border of light coloured Zibeline fur surrounds the bottom of the pelisse, and a muff of the same costly skin is worn with this dress. The sleeves of the pelisse are made en gigot, and confined half way up the small of the arm, with straps of gros de Naples, The collar stands up in the former French style, and is surmounted by a frill of lace, rather narrow. A bonnet of black velvet, lined with pink, and tied with broad striped ribbon to correspond, is ornamented with long, drooping black feathers: underneath is worn a lace cornette, with a full ornament on one side of pink satin: the strings of the bonnet are generally left loose.

A handsome gold chain is thrown over the neck, with an eye glass tucked under the belt; and the other part of the chain is placed on the bust like a necklace; in the centre of which is a splendid bijou, as a souvenir. Black satin slippers, and lemon coloured kid gloves, complete this costume.

La Belle Assemblée, 1831

DINNER DRESS AND BALL DRESS

1831 DINNER DRESS AND BALL DRESSDinner Dress. A dress composed of gros de Chine; the colour, a new and singularly beautiful shade of yellow. The corsage is1plain behind, and disposed in crossed drapery in front; it is cut something higher than usual, and displays very little of the chemisette, which is of blond lace. Béret sleeves of moderate width, and very short, with long sleeves, à la Reine, over them, composed of white gaze de Soie, and terminated by a ruche of blond net. The head-dress is a toque composed of a very dark violet crape. A bouquet of white ostrich feathers, with a knot of ribbon at its base, is placed under the brim on the left side, and two larger feathers attached to the right side of the crown droop to the left over the brim. The jewellery should be of burnished gold.

Ball Dress. A dress of white satin striped gauze, over a white gros de Naples slip. Corsage à la Grecque, with béret sleeves, surmounted by a double fall of blond lace disposed en mancheron. The skirt is trimmed with a deep flounce of blond lace, above which is a trimming of plain gauze arranged in bouillons, by bouquets of roses and bluebells, which are attached to the dress by knots of white gauze ribbon. A wreath of these flowers ascends from a bouquet on each side of the front of the skirt to the waist, en tablier. The hair is dressed in full curls on the forehead, and in bows of moderate height on the summit of the head. A chaperon of roses and bluebells surrounds the base of the bows. Necklace and car-rings pearls.

Le Petit Courrier des Dames, 1835

WALKING DRESS

Satin mantle with wide cape-sleeves 1835Satin mantle with wide cape-sleeves to allow room for the leg of-mutton sleeves 617 the dress. High poke-bonnet trimmed with cock's feathers and a checker-pattern ribbon.

 

 

 

 

Le Petit Courrier des Dames, 1840

VISITING DRESS

1840 VISITING DRESSThe seated lady wears a robe of embroidered muslin. Her shawl is of gros de Naples garnished with lace. The other dress is decorated with braid, and the shawl has a printed pattern. The hats are of muslin garnished with lace.

 

 

 

Le Petit Courrier des Dames, 1850

DAY DRESS AND EVENING DRESS1850 DAY DRESS AND EVENING DRESS

Day dress and evening dress in tulle and grenadine, trimmed with ribbons. Shawl of white lace. Lace bonnet trimmed with ribbons.

 

 

 

 

Le Petit Courrier des Dames, 1850

RIDING COSTUME1850 LADY'S RIDING COSTUME

 

 

 

 

 

Le Petit Courrier des Dames, 1857

OUTDOOR DRESS AND CONCERT DRESS

1857 OUTDOOR DRESS AND CONCERT DRESSutdoor dress in gooseberry green and black taffeta with wide stripes. Casaque in velvet garnished with zibeline. Hat of green velvet. Concert dress in antique Scotch moiré, satin trimmings, blue Louise, jade passementerie ornamented with ball-fringe; low-necked corsage with berthe in moiré, ornamented with the same passementerie, short sleeves ornamented with the same, a knot of which is placed at the side and falls over the arm. Head-dress in blue velvet with twisted and tinted plumes.

 

 

The Young Englishwoman, 1871

OUTDOOR COSTUME

1871 OUTDOOR COSTUMEToilette de Ville with three flounces and a panier bustle dixhuitème siècle; a broad horizontal band of velvet encircles the skirt; short pagoda sleeves. Small hat trimmed with ribbons, flowers and feathers. jacket trimmed with narrow bands of fur; bonnet trimmed with feathers; muff to match jacket.

 

 

 

La Mode Illustrée, 1878

BALL DRESS AND DINNER DRESS

1878 BALL DRESS AND DINNER DRESSA ball toilette of satin black and moon colour (pearl grey). The edge of the skirt is trimmed with plaited flounces of black satin lined with moon satin. At the front, draperies of moon satin and black satin. At the back a train of the moon satin. The draperies of the moon satin are trimmed with white lace. At the side a string of white roses. Round the neck of the low body is a string of white roses instead of a berthe. Short sleeves of white smooth crape puffed.

A dinner toilette. Of bronze satin and pink faye. The skirt is trimmed with large horizontal plaits; in the middle on each plait is a bow of the same satin double-faced bronze and pink. On each side of these plaits, a very large reverse striped with very long button-holes of pink faye terminated with a pink button. A great pink faye waistcoat, opened in a square shape. Long sleeves; very high reverses of pink faye.

La Mode Illustrée, 1880

OUTDOORS DRESS AND HUNTING COSTUME

1880 OUTDOORS DRESS AND HUNTING COSTUMEAn out of doors toilet of dark-blue satin merveilleux and a damasked tissue the ground of the same colour. The round skirt made of the satin material, is trimmed with a bouillonné and a plaited flounce. This trimming is twice repeated. The tunic is of the damassé tissue, horizontally plaited in front and raised in poufs behind. The basque of the corsage is disposed in paniers and trimmed with a fringe to match the damassé tissue. The draperies are raised by the means of macarons of braiding to match the fringe.

A costume for hunting for a young woman or a young girl. The costume, made of chamois colour cloth, middling tints, is composed of a short skirt plaited perpendicularly. Under its nether edge is a narrow plaited flounce made of surah of the caroubier shade. The tunic of the same cloth, a little shorter than the skirt, piped in red surah, is slit at the front and widely raised at the hips, so as to show all the front of the skirt. A veste justaucorps of the same cloth, very long, piped in red, with red buttons, the neck gears three collars of unequal size piped the same. An upright linen collar and manchettes to match. A red cravate (sic). A game-bag (gibecière) made of Russian leather. A toque of chamois felt trimmed with pheasant feathers. Yellow leather boots, very high.

La Mode Artistique, 1890

OUTDOOR-TOILET

OUTDOOR-TOILET DRESS 1890Silk reps or corded silk in a lovely shade of heliotrope adorned with black passementerie of elaborate design. The round skirt cut longish, is trimmed with passementerie. The front is caught up on either hip so that the material should form a few natural folds as shown. The skirt is mounted on the extremity of the bodice. This is hooked on the shoulder and under the arm, and is adorned with passementerie describing a plastron descending in a point to the bend of the waist, between the folds of the bodice. The sleeves entirely covered with passementerie are slightly gathered at the shoulder while they are close-fitting at the bottom and are fastened with a closely set row of small black buttons. Small capote of velvet to match the gown adorned with knots of green and mauve ribbons.  Black kid shoes; short kid gloves.

FOOTNOTE

The words are as shown in the original text, much of which was taken from the original fashion plate information. These words must have been unusual and different enough or then thought so foreign so they were highlighted. The spelling of Cachemire is French which somehow must have made it seem even more novel than kashmir or kerseymere or cashmere.

LIST OF PLATES

LE BEAU MONDF, 1807, LA BELLE ASSEMBLÉE I8I7, LA BELLE ASSEMBLÉE 1823, LA BELLE ASSEMBLÉE, 1824, LA BELLE ASSEMBLÉE  1831,  PETIT COURRIFR DES DAMES, 1835, PETIT COURRIER DES DAMES, 1840 PETIT COURRIER DES DAMES, 1840, PETIT COURRIER DES DAMES, 1850,  PETIT COURRIER DES DAMES, 1850, PETIT COURRIER DES DAMES, 1857, GAZETTE OF FASHION, 1861, THE YOUNG ENGLISHWOMAN, 1871, LA MODE ILLUSTRÉE, 1878, LA MODE ILLUSTRÉE, 1880, LA MODE ARTISTIQUE, 1890.

 

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This Fashion Plates Page Added 8 Oct 2005

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