In both England and America the word corset replaced the word stays.
The soft muslin dresses of 1800 clung to the body highlighting the natural
body outline. This made it difficult to wear stays, but those with imperfect
figures had no choice.
When it became fashionable
to wear a white slippery silk satin slip over the stays, the dress line became
quite smooth as the muslin flowed over the silk underskirt. Later, extra
fullness at the skirt back, was supported by a small bustle pad.
The Empire fashions at the turn of the century
were often little more than sheer nightgowns. The practical solution to
the discomfort of lighter clothing was to adopt the warm male undergarment
called pantaloons. Made of light stockinet in a flesh colour they went all the
way to the ankles or to just below the knee.
The flesh tone pantaloons
acted in the same way flesh toned bra and briefs do today under white or
pastel trousers and top. It is for this reason that Empire women seen in
paintings of the era, often appear to be wearing no underwear. Right -
Corset of 1810.
In the 1820s the skirts widened with frills and were often horsehair padded
at hemline to make them stand away from the legs. After 1820 corsets were worn
again by all women.
By 1825 the high waist had dropped to its normal position, but skirts
became wider and shorter to balance the increasing sleeves. Corsetry was a
must again to show off the narrow waist. In the mid 1830s basque shaped pieces
were added to the hips.
After 1840 the corset was of a new style made from seven to thirteen
individual pieces. The gusseted reinforced stitched corsets of strong white
twill cotton, used vertical rows of whalebone shaped to the natural body
shape. They were still laced at the back.
Evening dresses had such low décolletage showing exposed shoulders, that
the corset had to lose its shoulder straps and become free standing. Because
the dress bodices were lengthening the actual dress bodices were boned
in sections and this gave not only extra contour, but also helped stop
creasing across the body fabric.
Right - Madam Cave's patent Corset of 1884 without
shoulder straps, but with abdominal over belt to keep the figure to proper
proportion. Recommended by The Lancet as it was thought to be
designed with healthy intention.
For specific eras about shape and body manipulation click below:-
*
For superb Victorian or Edwardian re-enactment costumes in USA, try the reproduction costume range at:
Fashion-Era.com looks at women's costume and fashion history and analyses the mood of an era. Changes in technology, leisure, work, cultural and moral values. Homelife and politics also
contribute to lifestyle trends, which in turn influence the clothes we wear. These are the changes that make any era of society special in relation to the study of the costume of a period.
Fashion-Era.com can take no responsibility for any information on the site which may cause you error, loss or costs incurred from use of the information and links either directly or
indirectly. This site is owned, designed, written and developed by Pauline Weston Thomas and Guy Thomas. This site is designed to be viewed in 1024 X 768 or higher.
Before you write to me for costume/fashion help or information please, please consult the extensive sitemap which lists all our pages. If you still cannot find the answer after searching the site, then before you email me, please consider if you are prepared to make a donation to the website.
Donations Reader's donations help this site flourish, in particular donations encourage me to write more articles on fashion history as well as current trends. PayPal
allows anyone with a credit card to donate easily and securely. You may donate any sum you feel appropriate.
If you have any comments, or if you see any broken links, then please email with
details of the page url or problem
